One thing I think makes a big difference is a two-bolt seat-post. Yep. Two bolts. Why?
There’s a big difference IMHO between sitting on a trainer in the garage, and riding outside. For one thing, you have a tendency to not balance your weight on your feet with your butt up off the saddle, even a few millimeters, enough to get that precious groin blood flowing again. For another, you’re not increasing and decreasing your inclination (going up and down rolling hills) which also moves you around on your saddle some.
With a two-bolt seatpost and a properly-sized allen wrench handy, you can adjust your seat angle on-the-fly.
Yep. While sitting on your trainer you can reach down between your legs, or around behind your butt, insert the wrench, and wiggle it a little bit in and out to get the right angle for your poor suffering groin and butt.
Tightening a screw brings that part of the saddle down, and loosening it allows it to upward. It works in conjunction with the opposite screw.
As an example, to bring the nose of the saddle down, loosen the rear bolt, and tighten the front bolt. Does that make sense?
I’ve discovered for myself that I have to pause pedaling to work on the front bolt, but can do the rear bolt while riding.
I’ve noticed slight differences in angles with various cycling bibs I wear for indoor training. I’ve also notice a slight difference in the fore-aft positioning of the saddle. And of course, I’ve noticed a big difference when I use a slightly higher front tire stabilizer slot.
Maybe I’m just really picky?
Stay tuned for some information about the saddle I chose for my indoor trainer too.
Below: screenshots from my Kurt Kinetic Fit App, receiving data from my Kurt Inride sender on my Kurt Road Machine trainer, my Wahoo Blue SC (speed cadence) sender on my bike, and my Suunto Smart heart rate sender. What a mashup! Yes, it works great. I’ll let you in on how I got them all to play nicey-nicey here in the next few weeks if you can be patient.
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